San Jose del Cabo Aeropuerto, Baja
Much like the Conquistadors who sailed to the New World, the woman seated beside me came in search of gold – gold liquor from the legendary Baja watering hole “Bibliotheca de Tequila”. She readily admits to feeling no restraint whatsoever whenever tequila’s involved.
However, my quest is different but also satisfies an obsession. I came to circumnavigate the southern peninsula by car, chasing the Baja of generations past.
I too feel little restraint.
Still Baja, After All These Years?
After an amusement-park style line winding through a large air-conditioned customs auditorium, I make my way past hawkers to the rental car desks and arrange a shuttle for pick up. I’d reserved with Antonio at Cactus Car earlier by phone, so my vehicle was ready to go.
Since my route includes a large portion of off-road driving a small 4WD SUV is essential. My choice is the Hyundai Tucson – the V-6 engine provides plenty of power but remains easy on gas, a good thing when driving the sometimes long distances off-road between available fuel.
Entering the Los Cabos Corridor
Rated as one of Mexico’s top tourist destinations, the coastline between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas is popularly known as just the “Corridor”. This road provides access to many of the finest all-inclusive resorts, and although much is still undeveloped, construction is occurring at a rapid clip so that “wild feeling” is departing fast.
A few miles into the Corridor I find a perfect road trippers home base. The central location, the collection of 20+ high-end indoor food stalls only a stroll away, the gas station and convenience store next door, the secure underground parking, the very helpful front desk personnel – all make Hampton Inn the perfect base for my exploration of the area.
Into the Spanish Colonial Character of Baja
“Head east into San José del Cabo and slow down a bit”, the front desk tells me. “It’s much different than Cabo”.
I took this advice and found that when assessing San José del Cabo versus Cabo San Lucas, something I’d read is true – it’s like comparing twin sisters with different personalities. San José is refined and shy, the other’s a party animal.
Because active road construction makes navigation difficult I choose to walk the streets lining the colonial Plaza Mijares. This square holds the town’s original church and city hall. Being Sunday, the central bandstand is surrounded with families dressed in their colorful finest as church lets out.
After a late lunch at a traditional Mexican restaurant near the plaza, I return to my base along a coast set on fire by the setting sun.
Todos Santos via Baja Affluence –
Meet Global Capitalism
Early in the morning I leave for Cabo San Lucas and the terminus of BCS-1. One of the original Spring Break party spots, Cabo has today become a capitalist Oz of Walmart, Costco, and some of the largest multinational shopping venues.
For the road tripper this works out quite well – Walmart is the perfect one-stop-shop for road supplies like food and drink. Plus road tripping means, to me anyway, traveling prepared for the unexpected – I also pick up a can of flat fix, a quart of oil, road flares, and a couple gallons of bottled water.
Navigating through Cabo San Lucas streets turns out a bit more tricky than I’d anticipated. The junction of BCS-1 and BCS-19 is clear enough, but road construction (November 2017) soon got me turned around. After a stop and quick directions from a random store, the route to Todos Santos once again became clear.
Magic in Todos Santos Town
Traveling north from Cabo San Lucas I’m driving on what one friend describes as a “National Park drive without entrance fees or tolls”. Groves of cardón cacti line the new 4-lane highway connecting Cabo day-trippers with a “Mexican” adventure, although one somewhat gentrified by numerous foreign Ex-Pats.
Todos Santos was named a “Magic Town” by the Ministry of Tourism and is known for its art galleries, upscale restaurants and boutique hotels. Here my road trip pauses and my base becomes a vacation home in the La Poza district, where the oasis meets the sea.
Among many things, the owners of Casa Oasis Todos Santos, Patricia and Charles, are “Tequila Sommeliers” and greet me with different brands, limes, and salt to begin my education in things agave. However that is not the only education I receive, because my friends are also hooked into the local scene and offer many suggestions on things to do and see.
One is a downtown walking tour winding through streets lined with buildings from the glory days, when cane sugar was king in this ex-sugarmill company town. Another recommendation is the El Mirador Restaurant.
Whenever I’m somewhere surrounded by the world’s best fishing oceans I naturally expect fantastic seafood, which I get here. But it was the once in a lifetime sunset, a sunset that slowly kept sinking through clouds on its way into the ocean and taking a full 15 minutes that topped everything. It provides a simply stunning ambiance for a great meal.
However, it’s the Dia de los Muertos celebration which is the highlight of my visit – 3 days of colorful pageantry and delicious foods.
Halloween It’s Not – A Día de los Muertos Triduum
First off, Día de los Muertos is not Halloween. Its popular association with that holiday probably comes from a Celtic celebration beginning on the eve of October 31st. That honored Samhain, Lord of the Dead, which is probably another reason this misconception arose.
Second, it’s not a one-day celebration – the Mesoamerican tradition it sprang from lasted a month. When the Church arrived it co-opted this into the Catholic Triduum of Allhallowtide – All Saints’ Eve, All Saints’ Day, and All Souls’ Day.
Third, Día de los Muertos is an event celebrated mainly on All Souls Day – a few days after Halloween – and set aside for building ofendas (offerings or alters) or visits to cemetery shrines to honor deceased relatives.
Taking the chance to walk through the town cemetery, I see families honoring ancestors by cleaning and adorning their shrines. Most of all it’s a holiday outing filled with laughter and music, a celebration where all things happen joyfully.
Coming up in Part 2…
Continue to follow my journey as I cross the peninsular divide to visit the Cape’s wilder side… Part 2
When you go:
Cactus Car Rental: www.cactuscar.com
Casa Oasis Todos Santos Vacation Home: evolvevacationrental.com/340168m
Guaycara Boutique Hotel: guaycura.com/en
El Mirador Restaurant: guaycura.com/en/restaurants/elmirador
El Faro Beach Club: guaycura.com/en/restaurants/elfaro
Eco Adventures Todos Santos Tour: www.tosea.net
Hampton Inn: Hampton Inn Los Cabos
Written by: Steve Smith
Steve Smith inherited the wanderlust and has always needed to see what’s around the next corner. In his college years he enjoyed many memorable (and cheap) forays into Mexico sleeping under the stars, but today that’s all changed. Since 2006 he’s contributed stories and photographs to In The Know Traveler, and in 2014 he assumed an editor role with the same. Published both in digital and print formats, his international assignments have taken him to the Middle East, Asia, North/Latin/South America, Europe, and the Caribbean. Follow his Facebook page Steve’s Roadtrippin’ Travels that spotlights both his photography and how global road travels intersect with digital storytelling using dynamic space-age mapping technology.
Baja Sur West map built by Steve Smith, all rights reserved