Somewhere on the Dunes

Namibia travel stories

Lower Zambezi, Higher Cost

Africa's national parks differ a lot from country to country and they are run in very different ways, so I never know what to expect next. In South Africa and Namibia, the parks are over-organized operations with gates, curfews and strict rules, though I found them...

Private Parts in Zambia

I am far from a nun, extremely comfortable with my body, and if you describe me as "shy" in front of anybody who even remotely knows me – they'd laugh in your face. That said, I would like to think I'm all about respect. Respecting other cultures and their degrees of...

Leaving Namibia, or How to Find a Pangolin

I hate to leave Namibia - it has been so good to me. But my last days here weren't without memorable adventures. I wondered if the day would come when Columbus would drown in the thick mud it often has to go through. And that day nearly came. Mamili National Park was...

Caprivi People

Namibia differs from Botswana like day from night, except for Namibia's Caprivi Strip. On a map, it looks like the neck of a guitar, and stretches for over three hundred kilometers west to east, although it's only thirty to seventy kilometers wide. Along its seldom...

Chameleon Africa

Africa is a chameleon. I am only a day's drive away from Etosha - my most recent never-ending fountain of wildlife, and it's like I've landed on a different planet with its own magnificent and diverse population of birds and antelopes. Reminding me of my South...

Five-Hour Photo

She lay in wait and so did I. How famished she must have been, if only watching her hunt I've become so hungry I've risked getting out of the car, fetching my gasoline camping stove, and cooking up a hearty meal right there in the back seat of my double-cab truck....

About One Little Himba

"Ask her what her favorite thing to do is," I said. Jaco asked, and the little fifteen year-old Himba replied that it was cooking. She looked so precious, healthy, happy, but then also so alien to me. She was naked from the waist up, except for a few strings of beads...

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