I started in Front Street and walked along Whitehead Street all the way to the Southernmost point of the continental USA. Along the way, I made a stop at the Oldest House Museum, a beautifully preserved conch house, with original furniture arranged in a way that made it appear as if the occupants had just left for a stroll. That’s the kind of museum I love.
The route also leads past the Hemingway House which I didn’t visit, because again, admission seemed a bit stiff. A peek at the lush tropical garden was enough.
Then I turned around and walked back along Duval Street, where the atmosphere is very different to Whitehead Street. Shops, cafes, restaurants and art galleries prevail. And, here is the insider tip: I came across a ‘hole in the wall’ where I savoured the best crepes I’ve ever had outside France. Crepes are not to be confused with pancakes. It’s run by a French lady from Rouen and isn’t advertised anywhere. There is no need, because the mouthwatering smell wafts out onto the street and the place is easily spotted by the crowd munching away on the pavement.
The crepes are paper thin, big and crunchy and you can choose at least 20 different fillings, from sweet to savory. You can either eat with your elbow on the hatch or try to get one of the only four bar stools inside.
If on top of it, you ask the lady for ‘chantilly’ instead of whipped cream to go with your sweet crepe, she’ll add an extra dollop because she is so pleased that someone tries to speak French.