Seasons of Flavor Define Foods in Egypt
Street Vendors Offer Tastes of the Season in Egypt
Speaking so fast that the repeated word actually sounds like one long tongue twister, the vendors on the corner down the street from my Cairo home lean in to every car window that passes. "Gambari, gambari, gambari!!!" There is always a slight lilt in their voices that implies a question. They stand for hours and yet never seem to run out of energy, playfully bantering with drivers or amongst themselves. It’s shrimp season in Egypt and the street hawkers are on their game.
Well, it’s also orange season, but those edibles tend to be restricted to the fruit stands and wagons that have the slightly more passive merchants managing them. The shrimp guys stack their baskets at the bends and intersections of the high traffic roads and eagerly dangle-jangle their dripping product with outstretched arms into the lane of passing cars.
I've often wondered if they were in cahoots with the window washers who coincidentally(?) approach the cars just a little farther down the road.
Egyptian Agriculture Provides Seasonal Flavors
Despite tourism being the sexy economy pusher in Egypt, agriculture is still the driving force behind employment and daily life. Fresh product is always available somewhere close, if not from a small kiosk within walking distance then from a horse cart that winds its way through your neighborhood.
And the calendar is still king here. Farmers and fishermen still plant and gather based on time of year. A common Egyptian slang phrase expresses the uniqueness of certain seasons: "fil mish-mish" which roughly translates as "when the apricots are here". As this fruit has a once-a-year, two week timeslot of fresh availability, the phrase has come to represent an exceptional occurrence, an infrequent and precious opportunity.
Enjoying the Food Cycle
I'm never quite attentive enough to mark the comings and goings of the food cycles on my own calendar. I'm usually pleasantly surprised to discover the heaps of pomegranates or the mounds of turnips in the markets. I shift my recipes accordingly and revel in the rarity of the flavors. I do have my favorite fruit season memorized. For a few glorious weeks in late August the prickly pear (in Egyptian Arabic "teen shookie") plays center stage at all juice vendors and produce carts. I'll arrange my daily plans to ensure an opportunity to indulge.
The expansion of the global market has made products that were once time or geography restricted much more available to everyone, always. There is a value in that. But there is also a beauty to be found in the still exceptional occurrences, the small windows of time to experience specific tastes, the "fil mish-mish" of particular sensory opportunities.
As I walk past the corner stocked with baskets full of wet crustaceans, I acknowledge that not all people share love for the same flavors. I veer towards the kiosk on the opposite corner, the one with its entire storefront dedicated to the sweet tangy orange. My taste buds are tingling. I sense fresh juice in my immediate future: a spoonful of honey, a dash of cinnamon and a tall glass are the only other items necessary to make this girl happy today.
Written By Amy McMahon
Amy McMahon
What a unique view into the culture — how the people of a country eat. Your description makes me hope for some of that fresh orange juice some day. And your words conjure a picture of everyday life in Egypt. Thanks for the article.
You’re welcome! Try that recipe for fresh orange juice and I guarantee you’ll be hooked!
As always, I enjoy very much reading your articles. Must not have been in Egypt during shrimp or orange season, because I do not remember vendors by car windows. Since I am on this page, I will comment on the “solo traveler” if you do not mind. Prefer having a fellow traveler on trips to share comments on sites and experiences. Plus, would feel much safer as I get older to have someone with me.
Keep on writing — waiting for your “novel”.
I promise to take you driving when you next get here! In the meantime, I’m with you on the solo traveling. I do prefer the company. It just seems more fun to share with someone. But I’d rather travel on my own than not travel at all, so when I do I take what I consider the proper cautions and go forth with gusto! Thanks for the comments on both!
You haven’t really visited a place unless you have visited one of their street markets. Now this article makes me really want to go to Egypt to get some of those fresh oranges.
Since writing the article I’ve actually delved into the seafood market here and have to say that I’ve been pleasantly surprised. So add the shrimp to your list of foods to explore here!
Still wondering how it is possible that I have not made it to Egypt yet. Sounds incredible. And in my opinion, markets a fantastic places to get a true sense of the culture.
The door is always open, especially to travelers “in the know”!!!
Middle Eastern culture has always fascinated me, and what better way to be introduced to it than through food! I agree with Matthew – it’s refreshing to read an article on Egypt that does not mention just the pyramids, and street markets do make the best ways to learn about the place.
Amy, you are so right. I’ve actively tried to refocus my audience on the amazing variety of experiences they can have here. Pyramids are certainly on the lists of “musts”, but getting beyond the camel images can be so exciting too! Thanks for reading and commenting!
Great colors! I think people need to be more adventurous about street food…that’s where the best hidden gems can be found. I’d love for one of those oranges to be shipped to me in snowy New England!